The shoe performs great but for the price, I expected them to be more durable. After 2 months of light to moderate use (mostly in the gym) the toe is already worn through on one shoe. With every other shoe I've owned over the years, I've never had a hole wear in the toe so quickly. I typically get at least 6 months even with heavy use. La Sportiva warranty support doesn't cover "concentrated wear" per their rep so these are going back to REI. I'm not the type of climber that buys multiple pairs of shoes to use based on the route or problem I'm working so I don't see myself owning these again. If you only plan to use them occasionally, I would recommend them. Heel hook, toe hook, edging, smearing, chips are all no problem for this shoe. The wear issue is a real bummer.
This pair of climbing shoes are great! I went from a Scarpa Origin to this La Sportiva Otaki and i noticed some differences. I now know why it's more "aggressive" than the Origin and it helped my footholds a bit more and also my heel hooks are feeling better.
Huge fan of these Otaki’s. Bought a pair of Oxygyms for some indoor climbing/bouldering but decided I needed something a little more aggressive and these Otaki’s are perfect. They fit great to my feet, which are a bit on the wide side, and the break in period was fairly short. Super stable platform and they really let you dig in on the toes.
My only complaint would be I’m wearing down the toe a little quicker than I anticipated (about 2 months of daily climbing) but I see these shoes lasting quite a while.
I started climbing with the Scarpa Origin and they lasted me well for the first couple of years. They are decent beginner shoes. However, I can feel the significant difference the aggressive Otakis bring to my climbing. I mostly climb indoors and the Otakis help me feel every little hold on the wall. They have a fantastic grip and really help my confidence in climbing grades harder than I've ever climbed. These are aggressive shoes and I typically take them off after every route to rest my toes.
These replaced my 5.10 Verdons which were super sticky but quickly wore out at the toes. I wanted to try a more aggressive shoe but found the Vibram&3174 soles simply wouldn't stick smears and small smooth holds as well. Even small pockets, which the stiff, pointed toes should excel at, were slipping. Admittedly, I used them only in the gym, and they might work fine on jagged igneous rock. But now I'm trying a pair of 5.10 Gambits which so far are sticking as well as my old Verdons did.
Bought these as a gym shoe to replace my Katana Laces. My first impression was that the shoe is very stiff with a lot of support, but still smears surprisingly well considering the XS Edge rubber. The heel hooks really well, but toe hooking is not great compared to something like the LS Solution or even any of the Tenaya's. The velcro gives a really nice customizable fit which is easy to adjust depending on your climb. I find the straps to be a little big and they can get in the way, but I've had that criticism of every velcro shoe I've had except the Solution (which has its own problems.)
Amazing shoes for climbing! Mainly comfortable, but it tears your feet up too. I have constant blisters right under both my ankles and right above my heel. After letting them heal I went to climb again and the blisters came back. Extremely painful, but the shoes are still really good. I recommend wearing socks if you were to get this product.
The Otakis changed my life. I'm going to buy myself a second pair. I bought my first pair in July, 6 months later after months of indoor and outdoor climbing these shoes are running strong. Minimal signs of adverse wear and tear. My only reason for buying a second pair so soon is because I had a habit of walking around in them while at the gym which flattened their down turn a bit.
I have had nothing but an awesome experience with these shoes. I've had them for about six months and I'm considering getting them resoled to get that edge back that no longer exists. I would like to buy a second pair of shoes before I do that and honestly I'm just considering making my second pair of shoes Otakis aswell. I have nothing bad to say about them they fit my climbing style very well.
I have had these for a couple of months now. I got them because I wanted something more aggressive than my Scarpa force V. Even though my Scarpas were 46.5 vs the Otaki at 46, the Otaki is way more comfortable. I have also found them way more assuring on small holds and stick much better. I also have a pair of 5.10 Mocs that are not as comfortable as the Otaki. Love these shoes!
I purchased these shoes after climbing in the La Sportiva Oxygym for a while and needing some new wheels to keep up with my progression. I initially picked these for 2 reasons - I didn't want to get Solutions like everyone else and because I love the Otaki colors.
I have been climbing with the La Sportiva Otaki's for about 7 months now. Most of my climbing is 90% bouldering.
The Pros:
Good all-rounder for the gym and outdoors
Durable sole
Nice closure system
Aggressive enough for some tricky overhanging routes too
Good shoe if it fits your foot just right
An awesome shoe, very similar to the La Sportiva Miura VS in my opinion, but I actually like this one more - I prefer the S heal on the Otaki and I find it to be a slight bit stiffer and not quite as down turned. For vertical and slightly off vertical terrain this shoe rules!
I purchased these after getting tired of poor footing with cheaper brands. So far after 7 or 8 afternoons of climbing I have found them an excellent combination of relative comfort, excellent grip, and convenience.
Still breaking these in but spent 5 gym trips in them. My other shoe is the sportive mythos which is super comfortable. This is a good transition to a more downturned shoe.
They are pretty good shoes. There is a little room in the heel so they make a farting noise sometimes. Other than that no complaints
I climb with these nearly every day. took about 5 months to wear through them. definitely worth it
Love them great shoe always a sportiva dude. I have a pair of mad rock and gave them away
Kind of like climbing with 2x4’s on my feet! Will stick with my beloved VS’s.
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